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Hawaii's hot primary--the results

Akaka wins Primary

"Case closed!" was the gleeful shout, at Akaka's party headquarters, when the early returns foretold the story.

Ed Case gets "pun"ished that way. One of his earliest campaigns pitted him against Toni Worst, in what was inevitably billed as the (wait for it) "Worst/Case scenario". Case won that time. The moderate Democrat, with a strong independent streak, eventually went on to became Hawaii's junior member of Congress.

Last Saturday, Representative Case's surprising primary challenge to incumbent Senator Daniel Akaka came up short. Akaka got 54% of votes cast,to Case's 45%, in Hawaii's Sept. 23 primary. (Official results will, eventually, be available at the Hawaii State Elections website.)

(I am late to blog about this. Here in Ottawa we were hit by thunderstorms last Sunday, which lead to power outages in our village. Our internet connection was down for several days. All better now.)

Akaka made the most of his strong position. He enjoyed formidable advantages: incumbency, a solid war-chest and good name recognition. The junior Senator also got fulsome support from the rest of Hawaii's small delegation, senior Senator Daniel Inouye and senior Rep. Neil Abercrombie. With more money and strong union backing, Akaka had plenty to work with, including something rare in politics--he's a genuinely nice guy, well-liked by all.

Case had to come up with reasons voters should abandon Akaka, and counter cynical charges that sheer ambition was behind his audacious move. You could just hear the tongues wagging, when Case announced his intent to run, in January. "How pushy he is, to try cut in line!" (It doesn't hold up, though. If personal gain was Case's motivation, there are plenty of safer paths--toward more certain success--than the one he chose!)

Here's Case's case: Yes, Sen Akaka is perfectly nice, however, it can be argued that the Honorable Senator has not been notably effective. (Time Magazine ranked Akaka as one of the 5 worst in the whole Senate.) Furthermore, Case maintained, Akaka is too liberal and is prone to the blind partisanship, which causes gridlock. It was time for a younger, more moderate and (supposedly) more effective person to step up to bat for Hawaii, and its future.

Case may have failed to fully demonstrate that he could be the more effective Senator. True, he was willing to cross party lines and vote the issues. If that defines effectiveness, he'd win, hands down. However, Case would also carry a large measure of mistrust (outright hostility?) from his own delegation, and many in the State party, for years. There is a price to pay for stepping on so many toes.

Akaka just turned 82. The campaign did come to focus heavily on the question of age, seniority and planning for transition. While many were sympathetic to Case's assertion that Hawaii would be wise to anticipate some inevitable transition--and get a younger Senator-in-training ASAP--the fact remains that Akaka already has the seniority Case would be looking to build up. Why throw that away?

The war in Iraq became a tipping point for many voters. Akaka voted against going to Iraq in the first place, and he favors a swift pull-out now. Case was not in national office when the 2002 vote was taken. However, he's said he would probably have voted to support going to Iraq, based on what was known at that time. Case adds that he takes the threat of terrorism very seriously--just wishing it away will not do.

Case was successfully painted by Akaka supporters, if not by Akaka himself, as a pro-war, Bush-backer. (A sloppy charge. Case is no follower.) Based on his own assessment of the issue, Case would like to leave Iraq. However, he feels the US has a practical and moral obligation to stay until the Iraq government is strong enough to stand on its own.

It is interesting to speculate how important Iraq was in voters' minds. Clearly, for many it was the decisive factor. Minus a peace vote, would the outcome have changed? Who knows? This race can be viewed as ending up on the "time to leave" side of the ledger in a larger national referendum on the war.

Case made a very respectable showing, but he may have been hurt by a few missteps late in his campaign. For example, Case sent around an excerpt from the memoir of former Democratic Governor George Ariyoshi. In it, Ariyoshi criticized Hawaii Democrats for being closed to fresh leadership, unless the new blood obediently toed the line, in robotic fashion. Although Ariyoshi's remarks came from a speech given in 1972, they read like current commentary on Case's struggle within his own party.

As quoted, it also sounded like an implicit endorsement. Ariyoshi quickly protested what he called a deceptive misuse of his words and very publicly proclaimed his support for Akaka.

Case's serious challenge did mean Akaka had to rally his supporters and work very hard. It payed off for the Akaka camp on primary day. The election numbers showed high absentee voter participation. However, overall turn-out on election day was low. Analysts say both factors worked in Akaka's favor.

Case has three more months to go in his term from Hawaii's Second Congressional District, representing rural Oahu and all the neighbor islands. He is still considering what he'll do after that.

In the race to replace Case, former Lt. Governor, Mazie Hirono, beat out 9 rivals on the Democratic ticket. She will face Republican State Senator Bob Hogue in November. (Hirono and Hogue just squeaked past their closest challengers.)

Akaka will now face Republican State Rep. Cynthia Thielen in November. Thielen, 73, is a moderate with a strong environmental record. She wasn't even on last Saturday's ballot. She was selected to replace Jerry Coffee, who won the GOP primary although he'd already withdrawn from the race for health reasons. Thielen says she will make a serious race out of the last-minute run, but it's going to be a very tall order.

Political observers are still analyzing the election data, mining results for clues as to political or demographic shifts. Clearly, change is occurring in the islands, but to what degree and at what pace?

I will close this last entry in my Hawaii Blog with one of many archaic sayings I learned at my mother's knee: "It should be possible for honorable men to disagree honorably."

Mahalo to Senator Akaka and to Representative Case for the dignity they brought to their hard-fought contest. Two keiki o ka a'ina (children of the land) who do us proud.

Pau / the end

Journey's end

The Pali Lookout, Ko'olau Mountains and Kaneohe Town, Island of Oahu


Playing catch-up


I'm back, after a long trip of nearly six weeks. Hawaii at sea level was hot and sweaty--as it will be for least two more months. It's startling to return to Ontario's cooler temperatures, where summer is almost over!

The funny thing about visiting your past is how quickly those places feel familiar. In childhood haunts, Maui began to feel like home again. The same for my adult home, Honolulu, on Oahu. And we bounced around a lot. Returning to our house on Ontario--such a different world--I had to get past the muddle of "Reality? Home? Which is which?"

The blog got set aside in the crush of re-entry: wrap up summer, get the teen back to school, rescue the orphaned garden. Craig's comment that the blog needs a final entry seemed like a contradiction to September's other mandate: hurry up and get back to work!

The last two entries (on politics in Hawaii) also started a long email debate between me and my mother. Neither could budge the other. Which means, like a lot of other families, we will be splitting our votes in the Akaka/Case contest. Each side is crossing their collective fingers for this Sept 23rd primary race, which looks too close to call.

[NOTE: I will try to do an up-date post, later in September, to report on how that turns out]

A blog wrap-up reminds me of a few topics I had promised to touch on. So here they come.

Transportation issues

Being a bunch of separate islands in the middle of the Pacific presents logistical difficulties and added expense. Obviously, traveling anywhere outside of Hawaii is expensive. A depressing development in recent years was how the costly inter-island travel had become, with one-way tickets rising from $40 to nearly $100. Meaning our Oahu family of three would have to part with $600, just to go see my relatives on Maui, a short 20-minute flight away.

It's not like there's choice, either. Things assumed on the mainland, like connecting bridges, passenger ferries, car ferries, a train, the bus...none of those will get you from one island to another in Hawaii. Not yet, that is.

With this pent-up frustration for cheaper inter-island access, several significant events have come up.

Fare wars!

First, old inter-island rivals, Hawaiian and Aloha airlines, got hit with another attempt by a third carrier to crack the market. (This has happened before, notably with Mid-Pacific and Mahalo Airlines.) The resulting fare-wars can be amazingly advantageous for consumers. The best example, over 20 years ago, was flying stand-by for $10. $20 for a reservation. Ah, those were the days! Naturally, those fares were unsustainable. Usually, the challenger bleeds to death first and goes belly-up. Whereupon fares jump back up.

This time things might play out differently as the new kid on the runway comes with deep-pockets. Go! Airlines is a subsidiary of Mesa Air--they may be in it for a longer haul. Industry analysts are wondering if Aloha or Hawaiian will lose a war of attrition. In any case, historically-high fares, which hit $80-$120, have now been cut in half, or better, as the three-way slug-fest continues.


Go!, the new kid on the block, next to Kama'aina companies Hawaiian and Aloha, at Honolulu International Airport

At the State Canoe Regatta the event announcer made mention of how much everyone saved in travel costs this year and said everyone ought to make a point of thanking whichever airline they flew for their more-affordable prices!

The Superferry

Before the 1950's most inter-island travel was by ship. Air travel completely replaced that. With the exception of the passenger ferry we took from Lahaina to Lanai, there are no ferries in Hawaii today. People coming to Hawaii are frequently surprised by this lack, and ask "Why none here?".

Many reasons. Hawaii's existing air and cargo businesses have influence, and they do not welcome competition. Hawaii's open-ocean channels can be very rough--the distances are short but the conditions are extreme. Ferries are not always economically viable, as Rochester N.Y. recently learned, to its regret. There's also stiff opposition to the prospect of more cars, people, development and invasive species turning up in ecologically fragile places.

But something called the Superferry is attempting to start up in Hawaii. Company principals are negotiating for limited harbor space and debating which environmental impact statements are, or are not, required. Wooing the public with visions of finally seeing Tutu (Grandma) again, by loading up the car, grabbing the keiki (children) and being able to afford the trip, for a change. With a target opening date of 2007, no one knows if this enterprise will work or not. It's a subject of great interest--with the possibly of profound effects, statewide.


Maui's main port, Kahului Harbor, is busy and about to get busier.

This snapshot says a lot about the crush of competing interests in modern Hawaii.

Kahului Harbor already handles all cargo shipping for the island's growing population, plus record visits by cruise ships, and recreational use by canoe clubs. Now the Superferry wants to squeeze in here too. The smoke stack pictured is Maui Electric's oil-burning plant.

The smoke-producing electrical production, a busy light-industrial area and a sewage treatment plant all surround poor old Kanaha Pond, a rare bird sanctuary. Forty years ago, this area--which is prone to flooding--was pasture, shared by cows and birds alike. Just beyond the pond is the island's airport. It's the third terminal in my lifetime, which they say is too small and needs to be expanded. Auwe! (Which is Hawaiian for Oy vey!) When will it end?

The Jones Act

Most goods consumed in Hawaii arrive by ship. The Jones Act, passed in 1920, stipulates that all such cargo must arrive from a U.S. port, carried by U.S.-built and operated vessels. Economists say these restrictions add significantly to Hawaii's already-high cost of living.

Does the Jones Act favor shipping monopolies, which ill-serves powerless consumers? Or is it a vital protection, ensuring Hawaii will always be supplied by domestic shippers which can be relied upon, in time of war or economic turmoil? This question has also been an issue in the Akaka/Case Senate race, with Sen. Akaka defending the Jones Act and Case calling for changes.


Wind Turbines: popping up in new places

With all the coverage of wind turbines in the North Country, I had to mention that a wind farm has just started operations in West Maui.

Interestingly, the turbines are placed on a mountain ridge-line that is almost impossible to see, up close. They are visible from a distance, or by plane. The reactions run the usual gamut, from love to hate. Other wind farms are up for consideration in the near future.


Visible only from a distance, new wind farm operating on West Maui Mountain ridge

About 90% of Hawaii's electricity comes from oil-burning power plants, leaving residents vulnerable to scarcity and rising costs. There would be pollution issues too, if not for the trade-winds, which usually disperse the smoke plumes to sea.

Oahu also has something called "H-power" (a garbage-to-energy incinerator that currently supplies about 7% of Oahu's electricity). Honolulu offers twice weekly garbage collection, such luxury! But they won't take certain things, like construction waste. One of our trip tasks was to tear down my son's now-hazardous tree-house and take the sawed-up planks to "the dump". In Honolulu, that means driving over the Koolau Mountains, to the windward side, to a huge collector building. Most of Honolulu's trash stops here first, before being hauled to yet another side of the island, for incineration at the H-power plant. Does all that driving that make sense to you? Me neither!


Kapaa Transfer Station: garbage is trucked and trucked again:
future kilowatts for Honolulu

Clearly, the future will demand new approaches to satisfying power demands--and waste disposal. Perhaps solar will play a big role there, as the abundance of sunshine, year-round, ought to count for something.

The wrap-up

Why did I write this blog, anyway? Well, I knew I'd be away for half the Summer, with family affairs taking priority. I wanted some part of the trip to help me practice my trade, free from deadlines or the usual work demands. The end product may not have meant anything to anyone else, but it gave me something to do when I wanted a break from chipping paint! If you enjoyed any of it, I'm glad. Thanks for stopping by.

Hawaii is a fascinating place--with wonderful qualities and serious problems. I love the islands for what they still are. I am heartbroken by some of the things that have befallen Hawaii, such as the state's horrific crystal meth, or "ice", epidemic--which began after the war on drugs put the squeeze on local marijuana production.


Bumper sticker expressing a sentiment shared by many:
"Thanks to 'Green Harvest' Our State's On Ice"

I think I was fortunate to grow up something of a golden era in Hawaii, of sorts.

I have friends here in Canada who say similar things about other places. Montreal used to be fantastique! Toronto was the City that Worked, before death-by-traffic-jam became the norm. "Loved it then, but we couldn't face living there now". That sort of thing. I've met lots of people from Canada's Maritime Provinces who would go back in a heartbeat, if only there were good jobs there. All of this sounds so much like Hawaii!

Times change, people move on. My goal for the next half of my life is to figure out how to combine living somewhere else, with getting my fill of the islands.

Paradise lost, yes. For me, anyway. For now.

But paradise lingers there, still.

Pau / the end



The South Swells of Summer: harbor break near Lahaina, Maui

A Senate race to watch--part two

The way it was

Hawaii's four federal seats seats were generally held by Democrats. Incumbents nearly always won, often facing little-to-no opposition. The pecking order was for Representatives to become Senators themselves, in due course.

Occasionally a death, a retirement, or an unsuccessful run for some other office, creates an open seat with no anointed heir. That sort of puka (hole) gets everyone's hat tossed into the ring! A pack of hopefuls are now in just such a scramble for an empty House seat in Hawaii's Second Congressional District.

And why the vacancy? This year, Hawaii's junior Congressman, Democrat Ed Case, did the unthinkable. Out of the blue, in January, Case announced he would challenge Hawaii's junior Senator, fellow Democrat Daniel Akaka. The winner of the September 23 primary will almost assuredly carry the general election come November.

The uproar swept the state like a tsunami!

The main contenders: Akaka and Case

Akaka is Hawaiian/Chinese--the first Hawaiian Senator ever. From humble beginnings, the former school teacher was elected to the House in 1976 and to the Senate in 1990. Akaka is renowned for his genuine warmth and dignity. Everyone likes him--although his Senate record has been unspectacular.

Akaka's voting record is on the liberal end of the spectrum. He has also been unswervingly loyal to Hawaii's very senior Senator, Daniel Inouye.

Sen. Dan Inouye need not seek re-election this term, but he's a big player in this contest. A brilliant and highly effective politician, Inouye keeps a low profile. 3rd in U.S. Senate seniority, Inouye has no plans to retire anytime soon. He is sometimes credited with bringing back enough political pork to count as Hawaii's second most important economic force after tourism.

Beside trying to define "effectiveness", a big talking point of this campaign is Senate seniority--and age. The two Dans, Senators Inouye and Akaka, are 82 and 81 years old. At 53, Ed Case has nominated himself as the Senate apprentice Hawaii needs to maintain a meaningful role in the future.

Case is a lawyer turned politician. A 4th generation islander, he's what we call a local haole (Caucasian). Case and his second wife, Audrey Nakamura, were classmates together as children on the Big Island. Together, this multi-ethnic, blended family makes for excellent brochure photos. With his history, and ties to Honolulu and the neighbor isles, Case cannot be denigrated as an outsider--something which counts for a lot in island politics.

Case has built his political career as someone who thinks for himself--with (or more often without) his own party's backing. Calling for an end to partisan gridlock in Washington, he casts himself as a moderate, albeit with a strong environmental record. Case made waves--and powerful enemies--in State politics as a crusader, unafraid of controversy.

To succeed, Case must fight his own party's distain and finesse the culturally-offensive role of tossing aside a Kupuna (a respected elder). His "Case for change" argument goes like this: if Hawaii stays the present course, eventually some transition will occur, leaving islanders with two new Senators--and no seniority at all. Hawaii could disappear from the power map, instead of punching above its weight, as it does now. (When pressed, Akaka's plan for succession was for Hawaii's senior Representative, Neil Abercrombie, now 68, to eventually move into his seat. As had been customary, "B.C."--before Case!)

Senator Inouye isn't buying Case's version of planned succession. Inouye is pointedly and actively campaigning for "my friend Dan Akaka". Inouye even contributed $300,000 from his campaign coffers to groups supporting Akaka's re-election. This is in marked contrast to the race to fill the seat vacated by Case. Ten Democrats are running in that primary. Inouye, and the rest of Hawaii's Democratic delegation, maintain official neutrality there, taking a "let the voters decide" stance.

Besides this not-very-subtle power struggle, Hawaii Democrats are arguing about the size and shape of their tent. Are "blue-dog" Democrats traitors to Hawaii's proud liberal heritage? Or should the party have room for more diversity? Republicans are inclined to bring votes and contributions to Case, exacerbating the internal party rift.

National interest, local sub-text

The Akaka/Case race has drawn national interest as the candidates differ over the Iraq War. Akaka was an early critic and he favors withdrawal from Iraq. Case says the situation requires a careful exit, with no set timetables. For many voters, the war is the overriding issue. However, locally this race is also about power and philosophy.

Who will lead Hawaii? Who may succeed in Hawaii's Democratic Party? The old guard, doing business the old way? Or upstarts, with whom all bets are off?

As is true of most incumbents, Akaka has tried to keep above his challenger. With far more money, and much party support, he is reluctant to mix it up. Case is seemingly everywhere, clamoring--sometimes annoyingly--for debates. Akaka has participated in just two joint appearances thus far, the most recent before a group of publishers in early August.

Case has made so out of Akaka's "refusal to debate" that Akaka eventually relented. There will be a moderated program, if not a direct debate, on Hawaii's PBS affiliate, August 31st. By now, a much-anticipated event!

Is Hawaii's beloved Senator Akaka too old, too partisan, too liberal? Or is he experienced, loyal and wise? Does this kind, gentle man--with his decades of untainted public service--represent what Hawaii voters still want and trust?

Is Representative Case too brash? Too conservative? Too recklessly independent? What good is a loose cannon--who cannot play ball with his own party? Or is Case the one who stood up and said "The past does not own your vote--choose for yourselves!"

For Case is not just running against Dan Akaka. If he wins, it will also be a stinging repudiation of "old school" politics in Hawaii.

Stay tuned!

Politics in Hawaii and a Senate race to watch--part one

From Kingdom to State--it still matters


In 1893, the Hawaiian monarchy was toppled. Backed by a borrowed contingent of U.S. marines--a coalition of businessmen pulled off a bloodless coup. In 1898, after delays and obstacles, the revolutionaries attained their ultimate goal, annexation into the U.S.


If the overthrow of Queen Liliuokalani and what followed was legitimate political evolution, then full statehood (in 1959) was a happy outcome. Dissenters argue otherwise, citing illegal acts of aggression, rendered invalid by proper application of U.S. and international law. Proponents of this view make up different factions in Hawaii's Sovereignty Movement.

Some, who feel there is no going around the fact of U.S. dominion, still want some new political structure granting distinct status to native Hawaiians. Perhaps a "nation within a nation" model, similar to what many Indian tribes already have, or something else.

What is pono (correct)? Singling Hawaiians and part-Hawaiians out for special status is a political mine-field. The Kingdom of Hawaii did not base citizenship upon race. The legal climate in the U.S. today generally forbids making distinctions based upon race. As for restoration of Hawaiian Independence, there is no procedure by which states may exit the Union. Lastly, still other native Hawaiians are proud Americans, who aren't about to give that up. The whole topic is highly contentious.

Thankfully, this unresolved dilemma has stayed at the level of shouting and demonstrations. With innumerable common interests, and generations of inter-marriage, Hawaii's people simply cannot be divided into tidy racial, or political, boxes. No ethnic group here has a majority. While race can lend a sub-text to a lot of things, politicians must at least appear to represent all voters.

Party rule and the winds of change

From Annexation through the 1950's, Republicans ruled Hawaii. Period. And racism was part of that picture. Change came after WW II. Even in the face of overt discrimination, Americans of Japanese Ancestry (AJAs) had volunteered in large numbers and served with great distinction. The GI bill gave returning Vets greater access to higher education. A new professional-class emerged, hungry for opportunity and reform. Unions gained strength, fostering block voting in support of Hawaii's Democratic Party.

With grass-root organization, by the 1960's Hawaii Democrats went on to win most races, becoming the party in power, for the next 40 years.

These Democrats were unabashed liberals--idealists who wanted to re-make Hawaii into a better place for the working-class. They introduced measures like mandatory employer-sponsored health insurance. Hawaii was first state to legalize abortion after Roe v. Wade. The pro-labor 50th State, with its anti-business reputation, was a conservative's nightmare.

As decades passed, dissent grew. Had Hawaii suffered by becoming a one-party state? Was government too firmly beholden to powerful union interests? Real or imagined, charges of cronyism and corruption became commonplace. Critics, even within the party, complained that the Democrats had lost their zeal for social reform, concentrating instead on retaining power.

When the Democrat's lock on top office was eventually cracked in 2002, the new governor represented the impossible: A Republican. A woman. A neighbor islander. A mainland Haole--Jewish, even! (Something of a rarity in Hawaii.)

Former Maui Mayor Linda Lingle did not win because Hawaii had gone Republican--though the number of Republican voters in Hawaii continues to grow. She ran on clean government, improving public education and creating a more business-friendly environment.

Although the idea of her "doing for Hawaii what I did for Maui" terrified environmentalists and anti-development factions, Maui had been the State's only success story in a period of economic gloom. Seeing their best chance to upset the pineapple cart ever, Lingle received sizable campaign contributions from mainland and national GOP interests, a significant issue for those who feared undue "outside" influence.

After a razor-thin loss in her first run for Governor, Lingle ran again and won, partially due to minimizing her party affiliation. She got the sizable "enough, already" vote.

Since taking office, Lingle has been hobbled. The State Legislature is still controlled by Democrats--why should they make the enemy look good? Even so, Democrats in Hawaii are seemingly in disarray. The party--which once could not lose--has not found a strong opponent to challenge Lingle in this fall's gubernatorial election.

Yes, the islands are in political transition, which brings me to part two: Hawaii's most interesting Senate primary ever.

Images of Lanai

Take him away, take her away!


Child-free parents kicking up their heels as the passenger ferry to Lanai departs Maui's historic whaling port of Lahaina.















Lanai by sea.













Ferry entering the harbor.



















Lanai City, the island's only town. Located inland at the cooler elevation of 1600'.


















A charming example of plantation-style architecture nestled among Norfolk Island Pines.















Above: The Lanai City Cemetery. A loved one's grave, marked with a fishing pole and the bell that indicates a fish on the line.





Night falls on pasture near the Lodge at Kolele.

















The Munro Trail, crosses the ridge-line of the central mountain range, highest point 3,370'.









The coast is marked by fishing camps, such as this one here along "Shipwreck Beach".































Right: "Home Sweet Home" says the wind-chime at another tidy beach fishing camp, now tramped by tourists, like me.


Lanai....a unique place, undergoing a sea-change.



Cliffs along Lanai's south coast.

Lanai: background and commentary

The local view

Lanai was long known as the "Pineapple Isle". Except for the public facilities--like the airport, school and roads--just about the whole island was owned by Dole, of fruit production fame. Only a few non-Dole jobs existed: storekeeper, school teacher, policeman.

Most there did field work: hot and dusty, reaching and striding through sharp leaves . Not an easy life at all. On the other hand, once pau hana time rolled around (after work), the inhabitants did have the whole place to themselves. Something only the islands of Lanai and Niihau could count on.

At its peak, Lanai reportedly produced 75% of the world's pineapples. Lanai was also known for Norfolk Island pine trees and good hunting and fishing. These remain important recreational pursuits, as evidenced by the local supermarket's bulletin board--covered with trophy photos.

The population was mostly Filipino, with a little bit of Japanese and Hawaiian. Hardly any Haoles (caucasians). And we do talk like that in Hawaii. We make frequent reference to race, using the terms as adjectives. Or we did. It's a local thing. It was shorthand for getting a handle on people.

Nowadays a lot of newcomers freak out about racial labels. So you gotta watch your step. Which is too bad, because it was quite egalitarian and we were all cool with it. (Travel writer Rita Ariyoshi did a great article about how comedians like Frank DeLima have made a career out of ethnic humor, and how that formerly-accepted custom can backfire.)

But I digress. The partnership of pineapples and Lanai hit rough seas in the 80's as it became cheaper to grow such crops overseas. The island was acquired by new owners, who puled the plug on pine.

That was then, this is now

Today, Lanai Company CEO David Murdock owns over 90% of the entire island.

Murdock envisioned making Lanai into a high-end tourist mecca and built two luxury hotels with that in mimd. He spent big bucks, turning Lanai into what he then billed as "the private isle".

Bill and Melinda Gates chose Lanai for their nuptials in 1994 for that very reason. A Seattle reporter trying to cover the wedding was arrested--on a public road--in violation of his civil rights. The subsequent lawsuit produced an apology a settlement and a donation of computers to Lanai High School.

What's it like for a "company town" to control an entire island? It's weird. Craig and I first toured Lanai together a decade ago. The tourist literature at that time stated that Lanai residents are Very Friendly! They will wave at you when driving by! Please do the same!

Now, a wave in passing is what country folks will do, almost anywhere. But I am not sure these Lanai guys had a choice. Without exception, everyone waved.

Ten years later, Lanai is obviously experiencing a mini-boom. Lots more cars, and people. No mention of waves. Indeed, we got no waves. Which was kind of a relief, considering.

These days Lanai's permanent population is still under 4,000. Plus tourists and lots of off-island workers, like Russell. He works there Mon-Fri, pulling cable to wire up one of the resorts. He goes home to Oahu on weekends.

Our conversation began in a parking lot, when he jokingly asked if he could rent our 4-wheel drive jeep. Of course we all knew it wasn't ours, we'd just rented one for a day to drive the Munro trail. Russell complained that the rental companies won’t rent to hunters. (They don't want to clean up blood.)

Russell's story reminded me about something I ought to mention more often in this blog: If you work in construction, or the trades, and you always wanted to see Hawaii, what are you waiting for? You will get a job. Maybe two or three. You'll have trouble finding a place to live. You might need several jobs to get by. But employers are tearing their hair out looking for employees in Hawaii.


Lanai has been a company town since the 1920's. In that sense, little has changed. In other ways, everything has changed.


A model in the hotel lobby shows the footprint of the largest complex, the Manele Bay Resort, next to the island's best beach, Hulopoe. Development creates social, economic and environmental issues to consider, but in this case there isn't much room for input from the island's citizens.


Water is increasingly an issue on the islands. Lanai is in the "rain shadow" of Maui's taller mountains. It's dry. Is there sufficient water to create the greenery and fountains visitors enjoy?

Today there are many shuttles that run back and forth between the main events. The airport. The ferry. The 5-star destinations, the Four Seasons Lanai Manele Bay Resort and the Lodge at Koele. Plus the dowager queen, the not-luxurious Hotel Lanai, up-slope, in Lanai City.

Riding the shuttle, gazing out at acre after acre of abandoned fields, I kept wondering which was better? The old days, when the work was so hard but the sense of community was so strong? Or today, with an invasion of tourists, and the construction of retirement homes for the uber-wealthy?

The island is no longer very private for the still-humble residents, now maids and groundskeepers. Most still live in older "plantation homes" clustered in the island's only town, Lanai City. On the other hand, the shuttle driver sits in air conditioned comfort. Boring as the driving must be, picking pine was also monotonous work. Lanai was cursed with a bad case of "brain drain". Young people who wanted more than field work had to leave. Today, more have come back, or chose to stay. That has to count for something.

What is there for the visitor on Lanai? Be warned. It's small. There's not a lot going on here. Which is why we go in the first place. To have a destination that one can "do" in just a weekend. It's pretty and peaceful, but it's not for everyone.

What do I make of that island? I guess I mostly come away wishing the choices for residents weren't so limited. All pineapples? Or all tourism? Seems like some middle path would be better.

Good Luck, Lanai!


Tall pines dominate Lanai City, including these in the central park.

Next entry: seeing the sights.

Finding the right balance

Lucky you live Hawaii?

If it seems like I have something against Hawaii, or against rich people, I should elaborate. I'm trying to say that too much wealth, parachuting in from elsewhere, causes frustrations and problems. At least, that's been so in Hawaii. Even the born-and-bred kama'aina elite have complaints about the invasion of off-shore nouveaux riche.

People really want to connect "Hawaii" with "Happy". Tell them that things aren't always happy in Hawaii and they get vexed.

Residents admonish: "Eh, no talk stink! Be nice!" Visitors say: "We went there and had a wonderful time! Hawaii is fantastic!"

If you must shoot the messenger, better go buy a bunch of bullets. Because it isn’t just me who heaves a heavy sigh when thinking about Hawaii today.

I just met an older gentleman--at a very happy party. It came out that he'd grown up in L------. A drop-dead gorgeous beach, that started out with not-too fancy houses, and wide-open yards. People started to ask him about it. His face fell. He looked like he wanted to spit. Or cry. He answered: "I never go back. It's been ruined. Nothing but walls, mansions and cars."

Joni Mitchell's classic "Big Yellow Taxi" was reportedly inspired by a visit to Hawaii.

Don't it always seem to go
that you don’t know what you've got till it's gone
They paved paradise
and put up a parking lot

In the 1970's the group Country Comfort had a big hit with this unofficial anthem of discontent:

Tired and worn I woke up this mornin'
found that I was confused.
Spun right around and found I had lost
the things that I couldn't lose.

The beaches they sell
to build their hotels
my fathers and I once knew.
The birds all along, the sunlight at dawn
singing Waimanaolo blues.

(Waimanalo Blues, by Thor Wold and Liko Martin)

Degrees of depression on this subject are closely linked to one's sense of loss. What do you remember? What did you lose?

Certainly there are plenty of things to enjoy in Hawaii! No question, it remains a beautiful place. One of my Dad's cousins says she loves the changes. She observes how much more there is to see and do now, compared to her childhood on Oahu. Many people feel that way.

But scratch a native Hawaiian, an environmentalist, or any young couple shut out of the housing market and you're likely to uncover a deep well of pain and confusion.

Is that a surrender to depression, or is that the simple truth?

Just after writing this as a draft, I went to my bank in Honolulu to update a problematic checking account. The account representative, whom I would have taken for a "local" from Hawaii, noted my Canadian address and launched into an enthusiastic conversation. Turns out, he grew up in up-state New York, attended Cornell, has been to Ontario often and loves Toronto. A Hawaii resident for 11 years now, I asked him how he liked it here. He expressed simple optimism, but with such conviction, that my spirit was lifted.

"I've lived in many places", he said. "New York State, New York City, Singapore, Hawaii. The thing is, there is no perfect place! You just have to accept the bad--and appreciate the good. There are lots of good things about Hawaii!"

Amen, brother. And thank you for sharing that.

Different worlds, same universe

Musings on ordinary life

With Craig back at work, my son and I are finishing up the Oahu part of the trip. It's not overly exciting. We go visiting. When friends are at work, or school, we sand, prime and paint. Or prune. The object of our affection is a small, wooden cottage.

My grandparents built it, almost 60 years ago. Helped by sons, safely back from war, and almost-grown daughters. Toiling in spare moments, scrounging for building materials. The finished house became a very practical home-base for a Botany professor, who still published and traveled, well into his 90's.

The upper floor is rented out now. There's a garage bedroom, which grateful descendants borrow when visiting Oahu. Here's a long-armed photo, of my many chins, in painting duds, fronting the spiffed-up stairs.

I loved our occasional childhood visits to both sets of grandparents in Manoa. Green, peaceful--truly beautiful. Today, the Valley has a feel of "too many rats in the cage". There's powerful economic pressure to utilize every foot of land. Any spare nook or cranny will produce a casting-call of desperate, potential tenants. Parking's an endless battle near the University. Residential streets see traffic jams. Expect daily concerts of leaf-blowers and emergency sirens. It's sad!

One of the surprises of adulthood is flashes of recognition, after unconsciously repeating family patterns. My mainland-born grandparents all ventured to Oahu in the 1920's. They loved it and stayed. My island-born parents decided Oahu was over-crowded. The tried a few different places before opting for Maui, when I was a toddler. Eventually, I concluded the islands were over-crowded and dysfunctional. Seeking respite, we headed off to our Canadian adventure. Which we love. But will we stay?

Craig and I had only been renters in Hawaii's expensive market. Coming to Ontario, in our early 40's, we signed our first mortgage. On a place in the sticks. I spent a lot of time finding just the right varieties of dwarf fruit trees for our home orchard. Cox's Orange Pippin, Rhode Island Green apples. Northstar and Evans Cherries.

It took a few years to realize I was following in my Dad's footsteps. Only his special orders were all tropicals. Meyer lemon, Mexican lime, Kona orange, tangerine, grapefruit, kumquat, soursop, mango, avocado, fig, lichee. And more papaya (pictured) than we could eat.

The cul de sac of my Maui childhood consisted of four houses--also out in the sticks. A mile east of Paia town, between Hana Highway and the ocean, when that road was lightly used. We had a right-of-way to a small beach. Idyllic, if isolated. That childhood home became a casualty of divorce, decades ago.

Lately, someone has merged the old lots, removed the existing homes, and turned it all into large, ocean-front compounds. There have been hordes of construction crews working there for years now. Replacing hedges with high stone walls. Erecting massive homes.

The citrus trees are gone. The shade tree we planted was spared. In true monkeypod fashion, it spreads wonderfully. It looks so good they've thrown a spotlight on it at night. I can't say that I like the new structures. To my eyes, they look like houses that got into a bad batch of steroids.

It occurs to me that this story must be universal, told a thousand times in exotic places like Maui--and the North Country? Ordinary people, simple homes. Built without fuss, amidst natural beauty. Replaced, over time, by outsiders with money. Who, apparently, cannot exist without big mansions.

Is my lament about wealth? Outsiders? Or bad taste? All of the above, I suppose. Live and let live is a fine principle. Having money--or not--doesn't determine people's true worth. The problem comes from getting swamped by someone else's wake.

When when wealth moves in, things change. For everyone. Old-timers get squeezed out by skyrocketing property taxes. Wealth commandeers the waterfront. The locals scrape along on low-wage service jobs, hopes of home ownership evaporating. Too often, the "just folks" end up feeling alienated in their own territory.

Is there a solution? I don't know. I can’t really see one from here