Lanai: background and commentary

The local view

Lanai was long known as the "Pineapple Isle". Except for the public facilities--like the airport, school and roads--just about the whole island was owned by Dole, of fruit production fame. Only a few non-Dole jobs existed: storekeeper, school teacher, policeman.

Most there did field work: hot and dusty, reaching and striding through sharp leaves . Not an easy life at all. On the other hand, once pau hana time rolled around (after work), the inhabitants did have the whole place to themselves. Something only the islands of Lanai and Niihau could count on.

At its peak, Lanai reportedly produced 75% of the world's pineapples. Lanai was also known for Norfolk Island pine trees and good hunting and fishing. These remain important recreational pursuits, as evidenced by the local supermarket's bulletin board--covered with trophy photos.

The population was mostly Filipino, with a little bit of Japanese and Hawaiian. Hardly any Haoles (caucasians). And we do talk like that in Hawaii. We make frequent reference to race, using the terms as adjectives. Or we did. It's a local thing. It was shorthand for getting a handle on people.

Nowadays a lot of newcomers freak out about racial labels. So you gotta watch your step. Which is too bad, because it was quite egalitarian and we were all cool with it. (Travel writer Rita Ariyoshi did a great article about how comedians like Frank DeLima have made a career out of ethnic humor, and how that formerly-accepted custom can backfire.)

But I digress. The partnership of pineapples and Lanai hit rough seas in the 80's as it became cheaper to grow such crops overseas. The island was acquired by new owners, who puled the plug on pine.

That was then, this is now

Today, Lanai Company CEO David Murdock owns over 90% of the entire island.

Murdock envisioned making Lanai into a high-end tourist mecca and built two luxury hotels with that in mimd. He spent big bucks, turning Lanai into what he then billed as "the private isle".

Bill and Melinda Gates chose Lanai for their nuptials in 1994 for that very reason. A Seattle reporter trying to cover the wedding was arrested--on a public road--in violation of his civil rights. The subsequent lawsuit produced an apology a settlement and a donation of computers to Lanai High School.

What's it like for a "company town" to control an entire island? It's weird. Craig and I first toured Lanai together a decade ago. The tourist literature at that time stated that Lanai residents are Very Friendly! They will wave at you when driving by! Please do the same!

Now, a wave in passing is what country folks will do, almost anywhere. But I am not sure these Lanai guys had a choice. Without exception, everyone waved.

Ten years later, Lanai is obviously experiencing a mini-boom. Lots more cars, and people. No mention of waves. Indeed, we got no waves. Which was kind of a relief, considering.

These days Lanai's permanent population is still under 4,000. Plus tourists and lots of off-island workers, like Russell. He works there Mon-Fri, pulling cable to wire up one of the resorts. He goes home to Oahu on weekends.

Our conversation began in a parking lot, when he jokingly asked if he could rent our 4-wheel drive jeep. Of course we all knew it wasn't ours, we'd just rented one for a day to drive the Munro trail. Russell complained that the rental companies won’t rent to hunters. (They don't want to clean up blood.)

Russell's story reminded me about something I ought to mention more often in this blog: If you work in construction, or the trades, and you always wanted to see Hawaii, what are you waiting for? You will get a job. Maybe two or three. You'll have trouble finding a place to live. You might need several jobs to get by. But employers are tearing their hair out looking for employees in Hawaii.


Lanai has been a company town since the 1920's. In that sense, little has changed. In other ways, everything has changed.


A model in the hotel lobby shows the footprint of the largest complex, the Manele Bay Resort, next to the island's best beach, Hulopoe. Development creates social, economic and environmental issues to consider, but in this case there isn't much room for input from the island's citizens.


Water is increasingly an issue on the islands. Lanai is in the "rain shadow" of Maui's taller mountains. It's dry. Is there sufficient water to create the greenery and fountains visitors enjoy?

Today there are many shuttles that run back and forth between the main events. The airport. The ferry. The 5-star destinations, the Four Seasons Lanai Manele Bay Resort and the Lodge at Koele. Plus the dowager queen, the not-luxurious Hotel Lanai, up-slope, in Lanai City.

Riding the shuttle, gazing out at acre after acre of abandoned fields, I kept wondering which was better? The old days, when the work was so hard but the sense of community was so strong? Or today, with an invasion of tourists, and the construction of retirement homes for the uber-wealthy?

The island is no longer very private for the still-humble residents, now maids and groundskeepers. Most still live in older "plantation homes" clustered in the island's only town, Lanai City. On the other hand, the shuttle driver sits in air conditioned comfort. Boring as the driving must be, picking pine was also monotonous work. Lanai was cursed with a bad case of "brain drain". Young people who wanted more than field work had to leave. Today, more have come back, or chose to stay. That has to count for something.

What is there for the visitor on Lanai? Be warned. It's small. There's not a lot going on here. Which is why we go in the first place. To have a destination that one can "do" in just a weekend. It's pretty and peaceful, but it's not for everyone.

What do I make of that island? I guess I mostly come away wishing the choices for residents weren't so limited. All pineapples? Or all tourism? Seems like some middle path would be better.

Good Luck, Lanai!


Tall pines dominate Lanai City, including these in the central park.

Next entry: seeing the sights.