Where to stay?

Lodging

Another common question about Hawaii: "Can you recommend some nice place to stay, near the ocean, that's not too expensive?" Hmm. Sorry. No can do.

This pictured yellow building is the Hotel Lanai. That was the only hotel bill we will pay for the entire trip. A few days after arriving on Maui, Craig and I deposited our son at my father's place. (Thanks, Dad!) Then we left for a a two-night get-away on the island of Lanai. It's a historic slice of old Hawaii--charming, but basic. It's miles from the ocean. A room ran us $130 per night. (Still coming: a blog with pictures about Lanai.)

Mooching off of family is how we can manage long trips in Hawaii. The odd time we do go to an island where we have no connections, I use the internet to find and rent a rustic vacation house, with kitchen, for as little as possible. This is a photo of our house rental for a Kauai expedition in 2003.
Crash-pad in hand, we go hiking, swimming and touring everywhere via rental car. A few years ago, this started at about $130 per night for a furnished house which could sleep 5-8. I think there may be high-rise condominiums (with kitchens) in resort areas that also rent in this manner. There used to be internet deals for car rentals--that's worth a look. Where we once paid $20 a day for a car, this time around it's up to about $40 for the most basic vehicle. (Vans cost at least double that.)

You can pretty much count on paying at least $100 nightly per room for any commercial lodging. Double or triple that (or more!) for extra amenities, like proximity to the ocean.

NOTE: As we are only visiting Maui, Lanai and Oahu on this trip, photos of other islands in this blog are from previous visits.

Camping: think twice, choose carefully

Some tent camping is permitted in designated state and county parks. I cannot wholeheartedly recommend it. Pavilions are frequently hot, noisy and dirty--sometime dangerous--with bathrooms that may or may not be functional. Especially near roads, and at night, watch out for druggies or drunks. (Many parks in Hawaii are locked up overnight because of problems in this regard.) You may also be competing for space with homeless "campers".

Sadly, homelessness is a large and growing problem in Hawaii. Tent cities have sprung up in many places around the state, including public parks and beaches. The homeless include ordinary individuals, and whole families with children who cannot afford expensive housing. Or the mentally ill. Or substance abusers. Or those who simply prefer an 'unfettered' lifestyle. The problem of how to help the homeless causes much heartache and frustration on all sides.

Back to park standards in Hawaii. They have been so poor for so long that I was completely blown away when as a young adult I first tried camping on the mainland. There, we consistently encountered well-maintained, clean, quiet and pretty camp sites. (Some even had hot water--unheard of in Hawaii's beach pavilions!!) There's been a recent effort to improve Hawaii's park facilities, but vandalism is a persistent problem. Park restrooms and camp sites in the islands can be rather iffy.

Here are some big exceptions. Good, basic places, that are reasonably safe--in settings that are dreams come true.

For the fit hiker, try one, or all three, of the cabins in Maui's Haleakala National Park. These are over 6,000' in elevation, in the crater of a dormant volcano, with a landscape reminiscent of the moon. (Vandals tend to be a lazy bunch. They can't be bothered to show up here.)
Haleakala National Park is worth seeing. Bring warm clothes, though. Even in Hawaii, it's cold at 10,000'. The State bird nests in the crater, the Nene. These endangered and protected birds look like Canada Geese, but they are endemic to Hawaii. Like the famous example of the Galapagos islands, geographic isolation in the Hawaiian Islands led to many species evolving into new ones, found no where else. If rare flora and fauna appeal to you, come to Hawaii!

For any age and fitness level, enjoy a tropical jungle next to a breath-taking, black-sand beach by driving to Waianapanapa State park, near lovely Hana, on the far east tip of Maui. (The beach here is spectacular but the currents are dangerous and the surf is strong. Even strong swimmers must be very cautious here. Less strong swimmers should not go out.)

These photos are from a stay there in 2000. (Left to right: Wili buried in black sand; Wili in a Lauhala tree, the leaves of which make fine mats, hats and bags; anonymous Uncle with Wili and a camp fire outside one of the Waianapaanapa cabins.)


Kauai's Kokee State Park is also a good bet, with interesting hikes in the surrounding Alakai Swamp or in near-by Waimea Canyon.

There's world-famous wilderness camping on the beach in Kauai's Kalalau Valley, at the end of an 11-mile long hike along the Na Pali Coast. Craig and I have done this several times, "BC" (before child). It used to be extraordinary. I hear that valley is being loved to death and it is less wonderful now.

While the camping facilities at those sites are very basic, their settings are incomparable, for an inexpensive price. Typically, they are in high demand and must be reserved many months in advance. If your plans can be flexible, try calling at the last minute to see if there have been any cancelations. You could get lucky.

Car rentals and camping: a caution

It is often useful, or necessary, to rent a car in Hawaii. (Remembering that most companies will not rent to anyone under the age of 25.) If you rent a vehicle, when you arrive, the agent will ask you "Where are you staying?" They won't warn you before hand, but some companies will refuse to proceed if you answer "We're camping". This is because all parked cars risk being targeted by thieves, especially if parked in certain spots. (Property crime is rampant in the islands--see references to "ice epidemic". Rental cars are favorite targets.)

Forewarned is forearmed. You could be coy about your intentions and be ready with a cover story that includes some random hotel phone number. (The car companies don't check.) However, your rental contract, and any insurance, may be invalid if vandalism takes place while you left a car to go camping. You have to find your own comfort zone on this particular problem. There is no perfect solution.

Other travel costs

The truth is, it's expensive to visit Hawaii. And it's not just a matter of price-gouging visitors. Hawaii is just plain expensive, for everyone. Gas prices in Honolulu are always among th highest in the nation. Leave Oahu and it gets even worse. (On Lanai last week regular was $4.40 per gallon.) Practically all food costs more here. Astonishingly, store-bought tropical fruits like bananas, avocados, mangoes and lichee cost less in Ottawa, than here in Hawaii. Those all grow easily here--with enough yard space, which most people cannot afford.

Why is everything so pricey? Nearly all goods must be shipped in. Land here is tremendously expensive. These extra costs impact the price of everything. Bottom line: if you come, bring lots of money and plan on leaving it.